Recoleta Cemetery & Other Explorations

Since I've been in Buenos Aires I've been able to do some exploring. It can be hard to know where to begin, since virtually everything is new and interesting to me. Here are a few of the highlights! Sometimes I avoid bringing my camera (aka tourist identifier) but sometimes it really is necessary to embrace my inner tourist!

A little while ago I spent a day by checking out:

1. el Museo de Bellas Artes / the Fine Arts Museum
2. el Cementerio de la Recoleta / Recoleta Cemetery
3. el Ateneo bookstore

El Museo de Bellas Artes is great because it is completely free. I took a bus over and spent an hour or two wandering around. There were lots of European paintings but significantly fewer from Argentina. I don't have much knowledge of art history but I still entertained myself. Honestly it was just nice to be somewhere quiet. Buenos Aires is never really quiet so I appreciated the peaceful atmosphere.

It took me a minute to realize that the little green thing is soap! (Doesn't seem very sanitary...)

Next on my self guided tour was the Recoleta Cemetery. Before going, I knew that it was a large cemetery in one of the most expensive areas of the city. The most elite people of Buenos Aires are buried there, including Eva Perón or Evita. In case you missed the musical, (which apparently is much more of a US fascination) Eva Perón was the wife of former president Juan Perón. She came from a poor, rural background and went on to fight for things like women's rights, labor rights, etc. She is still largely adored throughout the country. Unfortunately she died of cancer at age 33.

I walked over to the cemetery which is quite large and walled off by large stone or brick walls. It is also free so that really seemed to be the theme of the day.

the nicer wall (another section is around lots of construction)

Along the way - there is no escaping the USA

The entrance 

Unfortunately, the sky was looking pretty dark and stormy by the time I arrived. My planned route would mean walking another 15 to 20 minutes after visiting the cemetery. Once I plan my route I really have to stick to it because it involves planning out what public transportation I'm going to use. I'm getting much better at using the buses but you can't just hop on any random one and hope you get home. I decided to just brave the storm and visit the cemetery anyway. I'm glad I did because it was probably the most interesting place I've visited in Buenos Aires.

A view of the "streets" within the cemetery 

The cemetery is set up in a grid, so you can follow little streets lined with mausoleums. Unlike cemeteries in the US, everything is paved. There is no grass or open area. Most of the graves are small, ornate buildings with locked gates. 

Inside you can see a little room that sometimes has pictures of the loved ones, flowers, etc. In some of these structures, it is possible to see the coffins. (Typically more than one as they are often for a family) In others, there is a staircase that leads to an underground level. Presumably only the family members have access to the inside.

It really feels like its own miniature city

The cemetery is a really interesting because on one hand, it is a tourist destination so there are people like me wandering around with cameras. At the same time, it is a place to be respectful because it is the final resting place of many. Families still come visit the graves of loved ones.

Some of the graves are more ornate than others. Aramburu, a former president of Argentina, is featured prominently, though there are many other statues throughout the cemetery.

Aramburu's grave/monument

I expected Eva Perón's grave to be the most elaborate of all since she seems to be universally adored. However I actually struggled to find it. It's pretty easy to get turned around in the cemetery because it seems to go on forever. By this point, it had also started to rain. Thankfully my camera is waterproof but it is winter here so running around in the rain isn't ideal. I was beginning to think I was not going to find her grave and that it would be better to just come back. However, with a little persistence...

I knew I'd arrived because there was a group of people standing around it. I was surprised to see that it is much more modest than some of it's more ornate neighbors. It was unassuming but instantly recognizable because of all the flowers. Unlike Aramburu's grave, which is more out in the open, it was tucked away between other mausoleums. 

At this point I was cold and damp so I decided it was time to head to my final stop. Along the way I noticed a little black cat walking down one of the little streets. Amused by the idea of a cat living in this cement and stone covered cemetery, I decided to follow it for a picture. It turned down a side path so I followed. And then I discovered that he had some friends!

Notice the goldfish water bowl - someone takes care of these kitties

When I crouched down to take a picture of the black cat, I discovered that there was actually an entire community of cats living in an old mausoleum. I actually never took a picture of the black cat...

Here they are, nestled in their little home to escape the rain

"Away with you, insolent human."

So amidst all of the graves is a thriving little village of cats. People from the community clearly leave them food and water so they're doing pretty well! Very cute if you ask me. 

And finally I headed over to el Ateneo bookstore. It's inside a beautiful old building that was originally a theater. It has multiple floors and has a cafe on the stage. I loved all of the ornate detail. By the time I got there I was pretty exhausted but I found a book I need for school.  It was "El juguete rabioso" by Roberto Arlt (to me this last name is difficult to pronounce). I plan to go back when I can spend a few hours really looking around. It's basically my ideal location given my love of books, Spanish, and beautiful old buildings. 

Ultimately it was an exhausting but great day! I loved seeing some of the city's history. I ended it by going to the cafe under my apartment and writing in my travel journal. (Thank you to my lovely family and friends for sending me with it! I have been enjoying it.)


Here are a few pictures from other places I've explored lately:

a pretty building near Calle Florida  - a pedestrian only street where people go to exchange money on the black market. There are people who just stand in the street saying "cambio, cambio, cambio" 1000x

seen from Plaza de Mayo

Plaza de Mayo - a longtime center of political activity and protest

monument in Plaza de Mayo

La Casa Rosada (the presidential house)

"Las Madres de Plaza de Mayo" (Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo) gather every week as they have for years to march for justice. They are the mothers or loved ones of "los desaparecidos" - hopefully I will be able to return and take a picture of them when they are marching!

view of el obelisco 

a cool pedestrian bridge near el museo de bellas artes

the same bridge

this is a flower sculpture that was designed to close at night (I think it's broken currently)

There are lots of things to see and do in Buenos Aires! I'm looking forward to exploring more.